Barbarian days :Published by : Penguin Press, (New York :) Physical details: 447 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm ISBN:9781594203473 :; 1594203474 :. Year: 2015 List(s) this item appears in: Recent Award Winners--Non-Fiction
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Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.